Dark Side collection diverts attention to the murky side of fashion

Like licorice – different shades of black, white, and gray and shapes that bring to mind frosted surfaces of the winter. When the color brilliance of autumn fades, changes also MORICO its winter coat to one that blends better with the landscape. In the embrace of natural materials that feel heavenly on the skin, it is safe to quieten down to think about our place in the lunar cycle.

After a summer filled with happy news, MORICO deviates to slightly darker and more difficult paths. Susanna Sivonen's Happy News pattern is still rocking in leggings, but changes its shade to Lakritsi (Eng. licorice) which blends better with the MORICO autumn collection 2022 theme – Dark Side.

– The black and white Happy News pattern also reminds me of the moon's surface. The moon theme can be seen in the other products of the MORICO autumn 2022 Dark Side collection as well, says the clothing designer and the company founder Tytti Alapieti.

This autumn, MORICO adapts to the changing seasons and freezing conditions by hardening the attitude, growing the fur, and simply just adapting to the wild weather of the north. Made of mulesing-free merino wool, the Balaclava Beanie protects us through even the fiercest winter storms. And when the gust calms down, the Balaclava can be rolled up into a wonderfully plush beanie.

– One of the best features of the fall 2022 MORICO novelty, the Balaclava Beanie, is that it usually only needs to be aired out instead of being washed. In addition, merino wool does not itch and warms even when wet. The beanies are made in Estonia from mulesing-free merino wool, Tytti says.

The Phases Hooded Dress and T-shirt feel gentle on the skin, while the moon phases print depicts also the power of the shadows. The hoodie dress is made of GOTS-certified organic cotton, the t-shirt containing also 50 percent recycled cotton. The Luna Pants continue in their Copper shade, and the Corduroy Pants  underline the Dark Side theme in black. Leggings made from recycled fishing nets are available also in Dark Matter pattern and in the colour of Kanerva (Eng. heather lilac).

The Wanderer Dress and Shirt, the favorite models of MORICO moonwalkers, bring a splash of color to an otherwise dark collection. They are available both in the colour of Kaarnikka (Eng. crowberry red) and in Kultakero pattern.

The dark side of fashion

The name of the fall 2022 collection, Dark Side, refers not only to the dark season but also to the dark side of the fashion industry and the economic system striving for excessive growth.

– Even though we operate in the clothing industry, we are aware of its problematic nature. We want to take a stand on it and act differently than other brands, Tytti Alapieti states.

With its shades and curves, the new licorice pattern emphasizes how sustainability is not simply black and white. MORICO is aware of the problems in its field and therefore prefers polyester and cotton made from recycled materials, GOTS-certified organic cotton, and Tencel Lyocell made from cellulose.

The moon theme and the Dark Side collection name illustrate how there is no light without shadow. The Moon has its dark side, where the light does not yet shine. Following the moon's cycle reminds us of our place in the universe and the special living conditions on our home planet, which resources are now being consumed faster than new ones can grow to replace them.

– As the Moon orbits the Earth, the direction is towards circulation – circular economy. For us, slow fashion means extending and continuing the life cycle of clothes and fashion. For example, fishing nets collected from the sea get a new shape in the Dark Side autumn collection as leggings, Tytti opens.

With its shades and curves, the new licorice pattern emphasizes how responsibility is not simply black and white. What is ecological and ethical for one is unsustainable for another. The eco-megatrend is being used recklessly and there is a lot of customer greenwashing, even fraud, in the industry.

Growing the raw material, processing, dyeing the fiber, and manufacturing the product always burden nature to some extent.

– The industry's greenhouse gas emissions would be reduced by about 45 percent if clothes were worn twice as long, Tytti points out.

Energy-saving tip: Air out in winter frosts!

One way to reduce the load your clothes cause on the environment is simply washing less. Even bed bugs die when clothes are aired out in subzero degrees.

– Always air out as much as you can. Remove a single stain instead of washing the entire garment. Many of the MORICO clothes are loose fit, so they don't need to be washed as often. Usually washing at 30 degrees is enough, which also saves energy compared to higher temperatures, Tytti advises.

The flip side is that spending time in nature, deepening the connection with nature, and understanding cause-and-effect relationships, cannot be done without protective, warm, and comfortable clothing – especially in the wintertime. MORICO aims to resolve the conflict by preferring polyester and cotton made from recycled materials, GOTS-certified organic cotton, and Tencel Lyocell made from cellulose.

Decision-makers and companies bear the greatest responsibility for correcting the dark sides of various industrial sectors. However, Tytti, who studied for a master's degree in textile technology at the Tampere University of Technology, also reminds us of the part of the customers. In Finland alone, about 70 million kilos of textiles are discarded every year, the majority of which come from consumers. That's why MORICO offers information on its website about how to care for and wash products, how to extend the life of a used product and how to recycle it at the end.

– These textiles could be used in many ways, but only a fraction ends up being recycled. Mostly recycled clothes are used as energy, although the life of a good condition garment could continue with a new owner. Textiles in poor condition can also be recycled again into fibers or as raw material for new products in other industries, Tytti says.

– When the already existing resources are put into circulation, products do not have to be made entirely from new raw materials. It also reduces energy consumption and saves water, she adds.

Slow down and make better purchase decisions

A mother of two and an entrepreneur living in Oulu, Tytti doesn't mind the darkening of the days. In Oulu, the length of the day is only three and a half hours on the shortest day of the year in December.

– Autumn has a wonderful spectrum of colors before everything turns black and white and the darkness of winter comes. In winter, it's nice to curl up with family and friends by the fireplace, hike up on the fells and snowboard down.

Although sometimes bad news from the world may make the future foggy, Tytti tries to remain hopeful.

– In difficult times, you should not give power to the dark side, but remember those flashes of light after the dark, Tytti Alapieti says.

Milja Horneman, who works in business development and marketing and work well-being for the MORICO brand, advises to slow down also on the dynamics of, for example, yoga exercises.

– Embrace the calm energy which is characteristic of autumn. Lighting with candles is a good idea and instead of cooling natural incenses, you can switch to slightly warmer ones. MORICO leggings are perfectly suitable for autumn and winter exercises, and the new Phases Hoodie provides excellent warmth during relaxation and meditation, says Milja, who also works as a yoga teacher.

Milja reminds us that slowing down is also important when aiming to increase awareness.

– Slowing down is helpful when you want to make informed purchase decisions and act respectfully towards yourself and others and be a part of nature and its cyclical nature, advises Milja Horneman.

As the Japanese word mori (Eng. forest) in the MORICO brand name suggests: we are not just a part of nature, we are nature. Once we internalize the idea, it is almost impossible to act against nature. Otherwise, we’d destroy ourselves.

The word mori also encapsulates why MORICO exists. We want to spend time in the forest, admiring the change of seasons in any weather – snowboarding, climbing, doing yoga, and dancing, but at the same time make sure that the Earth's common resources are consumed as little as possible.

MORICO slow fashion shopping checklist:

1. Is the garment the right size?
2. Is it high quality and durable?
3. Is it versatile, beautiful, and timeless?
4. Has the environmental impact of the material and manufacturing been considered in the design?
5. Does it generate waste and is it recyclable?
6. Has the purchase decision been carefully considered?
7. Will I definitely wear the garment for a long time?
8. Does it promote the diversity of nature and culture?
9. Does it promote cooperation between different actors?
10. Is local entrepreneurship, craftsmanship, and special expertise used in the production?

Kuvat: Iisakki Kennilä (1-3), Simo Vilhunen (4,5,7)  & Aino Huotari (6)