Our aim is to consider the whole product life-cycle when selecting materials, and mainly prefer organic, and re-usable or recycled materials. All textile and fibre processes are based on chemistry. Traceability and transparency are a challenge for a small company because of complex and global supply chains. Sustainability is our mission and it is a long journey that requires continuous improvements and learning.
- Organic Cotton
- Organic Wool
- Reused and recycled fabrics
- Textile industry leftover materials
Certificates for all new textiles that we use:
- Organic cotton fabrics are GOTS certified
- Organic wool fabrics are IVN Best certified
- Viscose, recycled nylon and recycled polyester fabrics are Oekotex-100 certified
All organic cotton used in Mori clothing is GOTS-certified. Velour and sweater fabrics are produced in Turkey, and are sourced through trusted European and Finnish suppliers who visit the factories regularly. The black jersey fabric for Ariel dresses is a knit from GOTS organic cotton in Nokian Neulomo, Finland, and the other jerseys are produced in Portugal.
In the textiles we use, the GOTS-certification ensures organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labeling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer. GOTS social criteria are based on the International Labor Organization (ILO) key conventions which include workers’ rights and ban on child and forced labor.
GOTS prohibits the use of hazardous chemicals commonly used in textile processing and requires that all dyes meet strict criteria and approved prior to their usage. When manufacturing without hazardous chemicals, both factory workers and environment are protected. This improves soil health and reduces water pollution impacts. In addition, there are no harmful residues in the end product, consumers are protected. The certification is undertaken by an independent GOTS-approved certification body and facilities are inspected regularly.
Read more about GOTS from here.
Organic cotton and water
Based on the Life cycle analysis findings by Textile Exchange report, organic production of cotton uses average of 90% less of water compared to the results of conventionally grown cotton. In addition, toxic chemicals used in conventional cotton production are poisoning the water.
Manufacturing of GOTS certified cotton, wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.
However, organic cotton have both pros and cons. Therefore, one of our main aims is to search also for recycled materials as well as replacing part of cotton by for example recycled cotton or hemp which require less water and other recourses than organic cotton. At an advantage, high quality of organic cotton fabrics are a key for long lasting products.
We use IVN Best Certified organic wool fabrics that are knitted in Sweden. This IVN quality standard defines the highest level of textile sustainability by applying the maximum currently achievable parameters to production and product. The production of animal fibers such as wool must also meet high standards: no synthetic pesticide baths for sheep, species appropriate animal husbandry and organic feed. The certification applies to processes involved in fabric making, for example a spinning, dying, weaving, and knitting finishing.
Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulosic fiber that is formed from natural polymers that are chemically dissolved and then extruded as a continuous filament. The raw material for viscose is commonly fast growing woods, so there is no need for fertilization or irrigation. However, the viscose process uses chemicals that cause emissions which have significant environmental implications when not treated properly and discharged untreated as in any chemical process. That is why strict effluent treatment and discharge protocols are important.
Crystal Seeker fabric is woven and digiprinted in Italy
The lining in some of our jackets and some digiprinted fabrics are made of viscose. We use European suppliers to ensure better production processes and following of rules and regulations. The lining fabric for our jackets is made in Germany, and digiprinted Crystal Seeker fabric is made in Italy. These both are made according to REACH regulations and final fabrics are Oekotex-100 certified.
Our lining viscose is produced from FSC-certified cellulose sourced from the close-by forests in the Northern countries and produced in Europe by ENKA. This ensures that we are not directly or indirectly contributing to the destruction of ancient nor endangered forests. ENKA also takes good care of handling waste water and emissions according to European regulations.
In the future, we would like to substitute viscose for example by Tencel. It is also a regenerated cellulosic fiber which is made in the EU, and have closed loop production where almost all of the solvent is purified and recycled back into main process. This way the impact to the environment could be even reduced.
Reused and recycled fabrics
Textile waste can be divided into pre and post consumer textile waste. Pre-consumer textile waste is for example cutting waste of garment industry or excess material from yarn production that are recycled again to yarns and textiles before being in use. Post-consumer textile waste means garments and fabrics that have been used. There are lots of challenges in recycling both of them, but many innovations and new processes are making the recycling more widely possible.
We use also post-consumer used textiles. Mainly we use larger fabric pieces such as curtains and other home textiles from Helsinki Metropolitan area Reuse Centre and other second-hand places. There is usually enough of same fabric only for one or few pieces, which makes them very unique. Read more from our journal: "Recycling – From Waste to Diamonds".
Recycling for textiles and clothing is a tough challenge. Kierrätyskeskus receives much more textiles than it can sell. In addition, the amounts of bad quality textiles are growing continuously, and also the amount of textiles that ends up in waste incinerator plants is increasing. There are only few companies that are processing textile waste fibers in Finland, and these exciting ones get the needed fibers already from close by. Also, there are no resources to transport textile waste for long distances.
However, there are many innovations under development to make it possible to recycle post consumer textile waste efficiently and eco-friendly into re-usable fibers. One good example is a Finnish company Infinite Fiber. Their fiber technology aims to turn textile, cardboard and agricultural waste to new natural fiber that feels like cotton.
Using recycled materials for textiles and clothing is a tough challenge. We want to take our part in this and keep turning waste into diamonds.
Mori Jacket is made out of textile industry left over fabrics
Textile Industry leftover fabrics
Textile industry leftover materials are the third type of recycled fabric that we use. These surplus rolls have been left unused for some reason. Often the fiber content and country of origin is unknown. We have had surplus materials for example from a Finnish fabric company that doesn’t exist anymore, rolls with hangtags with dates from 90’s etc. It is great that these fabrics are finally turned into garments.
Our unisex print t-shirts and tote bags are produced by Finnish Pure Waste Textiles. It can take over 11,000 liters of fresh water to grow 1 kg of conventionally grown cotton. Therefore, it is important that none of cotton would go to waste. The products are made of leftovers from the clothing manufacturing process in India. The waste is sorted by color, then re-fibered and spun into new yarn. No dyeing is needed. These fabrics are sewed to garments. Precious textile is not wasted, and huge amount of fresh water and chemicals are saved. Mori Collective’s print designs are printed at local prints in Helsinki and Järvenpää.
Recycled Nylon and Polyester
Each year, approximately 8 million metric tons of plastic waste enters our oceans. This is not only a great threat to marine wildlife, but also to human health. If this continues, the oceans will contain more plastic than fish by 2050.*
Synthetic materials such as nylon and polyester can and should be recycled. The recycled fabrics for our Dark Matter pieces are made by Italian company Carvico, and the final fabrics are Oekotex-100 certified. The polyester used is made of 100% recycled polyester from pre and post consumer materials. The recycled nylon is produced by ECONYL®.
ECONYL® is 100% regenerated nylon yarn derived from pre and post industrial waste such as discarded fishing nets, carpet fluff, and cutting waste. Once they have reached the end of their useful life, instead of being disposed of in the landfill, they are recovered and regenerated to a new fibers and yarns.
Swimwear and leggings need to stretch, so this is a rare occasion in which we use fabrics that include elastane. The 22% of elastane used is Lycra® Xtra Life™. This fiber technology is designed to provide a long-lasting fit and resist degradation from chlorinated water, the heat and sunscreen lotions up to 10 times longer than unprotected fabrics. Remember to use ecological sunscreens that do not include any harmful chemicals or micro plastics!
*Read more about huge challenges with plastics from "The New Plastics Economy: Rethinking the Future of Plastics” by The Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2016)